Friday 8 April 2016

April 3-8/16: New Pymouth

I wasn't sure what I would find in New Plymouth but, once again, I've not been disappointed. The population is not that different from Nelson's (just under 50,000) but the two places have a very different feel. Both were settled about the same time, in the early 1840s. Nelson is quaint and charming. New Plymouth feels like a much bigger city, and is much more contemporary, as it seems much of the city is relatively new.  It's economy is based on oil, discovered about 50 years ago, which might explain that.

New Plymouth is located on the west coast of the north island, by the Tasman Sea. Running along the Sea is a coastal walkway, 13 kilometres long.  One of the area's most appealing features. The sea is quite wild, so more suited to surfers than swimmers. I've been staying at another Airbnb,  about a 25 minute walk to the city centre along the walkway. In the other direction it doesn't take long until you are in the country. Here's a few pictures:

Signposts along the walkway

The walkway in front of my Airbnb

Beach by my Airbnb
Sand is fine, and dark

Sign along the walkway warning of high waves

This sort of wave does not rate a warning

Heading away from town along the walkway, 
it's not long until you see this sort of thing

I spent the first day walking through Pukekura Park, 52 hectares of native bush located right in the city. Here's a few shots taken in the Park. You could spend the better part of the day there.




One the way to the park I passed St. Mary's Church, opened in 1846 and the oldest stone church in New Zealand. The graveyard around the church contained tombstones of  early settlers who died in the Taranaki Wars of the 1860s, which resulted from disputes between Pakeha (Europeans) and Maori over land. The deaths from that war included not only those killed, but also others who died because of the appalling conditions at the time.


St. Mary's Church

Pakeha who died in the Taranaki Wars;
no Maori graves here!

Grave of a mother and four young children;
casualties of the war, I assume

My second day in New Plymouth I arranged to go to Mt. Taranaki, about 30 minutes from New Plymouth. It's about 2500 metres high, which makes it the 65th tallest peak in New Zealand. The tallest is Mount Cook, about 3700 metres. (Just as a point of comparison, Canada's highest peak is about 5900 m. and there are 124 over 2500 m.. I had no idea!) A Maori guide drove me to and from the mountain, and talked about what the mountain means to the Maori. That in itself was a highlight of the day.

I did a 3-hour walk that took me from about 1000 m. to about 1700 m. Probably the toughest walk I have ever done. Getting to the summit and back takes about 8 to 10 hours. I can't imagine doing that, although many young folk did. I had a crystal clear day, which is unusual. How lucky! A very steep climb and then a path that was often hard to find. I was expecting something like the groomed trails on the great walks! 

Mount Taranaki from the Visitors' Centre

The track, above and below
At least there was a ladder!

View along the way

Looking back, on the way down

On a short walk through the "goblin" forest,
after the big walk

Yesterday I borrowed a bike from my Airbnb hosts and rode up and down the Coastal Pathway, and another pathway, the Te Hanui Walkway. Here are a few shots I took along the way.

The Te Rewa Rewa Bridge is so striking!
On a clear day one can see Mt. Taranaki on the other side.


One can never go far without seeing a few sheep

And not far from the path, the endless coastline

Today, my last day in New Plymouth, I went to the museum and art gallery. Both are very contemporary, as you can see from the shots below.

Puke Ariki Museum
Excellent exhibits of the area's past

Govett-Brewster Art Gallery and Len Lye Centre

What an amazing structure! Unfortunately almost all of the gallery was closed, preparing for new exhibits. Very strange!! But it was possible to see some of Len Lye's work. I had never heard of him. He was born in Christchurch in 1901 but lived most of his life outside New Zealand. He's known for his kinetic sculptures, which are massive, and engineering marvels. The photo below is of the Windwand, a design of his along the Coastal Walkway, very close to the city centre.


Tomorrow I leave New Plymouth for Hamilton, my last stop before heading home!








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